Milan’s Opulent Cuisines
by A Ali on 2007-09-22In recent time, Milan has become a hub of number of Chinese, Japanese, African and Middle-Eastern cuisines. Food in Italy tends to be deeply parochial, with the different regions having their own signature dishes and ingredients and being deeply defensive about local authenticity. Milan, however, has been influenced by the massive influx of workers that headed there during its industrial boom, meaning that the traditional Lombardy fare is enhanced by influences from Sicily, Tuscany and more.
Milan is the birthplace of the traditional Italian Christmas cake called Panettone, although there's nothing to stop visitors ending their meal with a generous wedge of the fruit-studded bread at any time of the year. Torta di tagliatelle, a sweet cake made from egg pasta and almonds, is also popular, with most puddings served with mascarpone cream.
For those preferring a larger meal, it is traditional to begin with an aperitif. The local classic is a Negroni, a potent blend of bitter Campari, gin, red Martini and ice. This could be followed by an antipasto such as nervetti, a Milanese staple of boiled calve shank and knee cartilage seasoned with onion. A popular first course is Risotto alla Milanese, which is flavoured by beef broth and saffron. Following the meat-heavy theme, cassouela provides the authentic second course, although not all diners will have the appetite for the pig feet, ears, ribs and more, which are traditionally cooked with green cabbage and other vegetables.
Olive oil is less frequently used in cooking than butter while pasta is passed over in favor of rice or polenta. Pasta dishes are available but they tend to be stuffed and baked, often with cheese or meat. Risotto is hugely popular, often made with rich, meaty stocks and even flavored with bone marrow. Fish is also popular, fished straight from the many lakes in northern Italy, with trout and pike featuring particularly heavily.
Meat is popular on many menus, particularly veal and pork, with shin of veal being a local specialty. Veal is also customarily served with a mayonnaise, tuna, capers and anchovy sauce. Gorgonzola traditionally comes from just outside of Milan and the strongly flavored cheese is justifiably popular in the city. Mascarpone is also a local specialty and appears regularly in puddings.
Wine is the traditional supplement to meals and is included in any social occasion. Sparkling wines are a regional staple. Franciacorta is particularly recommended, offering sweet whites and mellow reds, while Grumello, Sangue di Guida and Bardolino are also all good.
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